Shουld I ѕtаrt аt thе highest magnification, οr аt thе lowest? Alѕο, whаt range ѕhουld I zero іt tο? I аm hoping tο dο ѕοmе deer hunting wіth іt аѕ well аѕ οthеr medium game. I wаѕ thinking I ѕhουld zero іt tο 100 yards, bυt іѕ thіѕ tοο far out?
Thanks fοr thе insight.
If the scope is high quality, the magnification setting doesn’t matter, though with a rock-solid benchrest, the higher magnification is usually used for setting the scope because you can more easily align the crosshairs with the exact center of the target.
The best range for the zero will be determined by the trajectory of the cartridge you are using and the typical hunting distances for your area. Many deer hunting rifles do well with a 200-yard zero, and you can then hold dead-on out to 250 yards and stay within a few inches of point-of-aim.
Here is the way I do it: Start with the lowest magnification at 25 yards to get on the paper of the target. Then move to 50 yards and readjust, then recheck at 75 and 100 with higher magnification. In my area you would rarely get a shot over 100 yards. If you are out west or anywhere that you might get longer shots you would check up to 200 yards on the highest magnification.
It depends on the caliber of the firearm. I like to start with a target close enough to to print on. If using a bolt action the distance I use is 25 – 50 yds. By sighting thru the barrel and adjusting the scope to center of target this can usually be done rather easily. If an semi auto then your better off using a bore sight and starting at 25 yds. You can move up to 100 yds if your printing in the bull at this point. Ballistics tables are of great help here. They will tell you what the optimum Point Blank Range (PBR) is for the caliber, bullet type and feet per second (ft/s) is. Having said that you must also realize that most factory ammo can vary in muzzle velocity (ft/s) but for the most part are fairly close in that regard. So now we approach the question. Just what will be my best choice to set my zero. For most people its what you feel comfortable with and more importantly, at least to me anyway, what is the typical “longest ” shot that could be made without holding over for the terrain you hunt? That’s a question only you can answer. For me it makes scents to set mine to a 200 yd zero. Why. . because it maximizes my PBR for a 9″ target (about the size of the kill zone of a deer). Do I get to make the 200 yd shot very often. . . NOPE. But I know where my bullet is going to hit for the upper and lower limits of it’s trajectory and when I hunt open ground there usually isn’t much I have to do for a long shot. If the shot is over 200 yds usually (depending on just how far the animal is) I can still see the animal while still staying at high power and aligning the cross hairs.
For scopes with bullet drop compensators, mil dots or mil lines: If your scope is front focal plane (retical magnifies as scope picture magnifies) then the magnification does not matter. If the scope is rear focal plane (the retical stays the same no matter the magnification) then there is a set magnification that the scope will be accurate at. This varies by scope brand so check your owners manual if you don’t have it anymore call the company.
For scopes that are just a plain crosshair type retical magnification will not matter.
I would zero at 100 yards but practice shooting at various ranges within the distances you would be hunting to figure out what adjustments you would need to make at those ranges out in the field.
chances are your scope is sitting about two inches above the center-line of your barrel. In this case, you’re probably using a . 243, . 270, 30-06, or . 308
on a day there is no wind, sight the rifle in at 150 yards, as this is a good range where the bullet’s drop will be tangent to your line of sight.
have you ever shot really far with this gun? you’ll notice that there is a heat wave coming off the back of the bullet. if you sight the gun in at about 150 yards (A little closer) then the highest the bullet will appear on teh scope is right along with the horizontal crosshair.
the bullet will look in the scope like it has a jump to it where it goes up then back down. you want to sight in the rifle at the point where it is at the highest point in your scope so all of your shots will be accurate out to a good distance.
What round are you firing and what is your bore offset?
If you’re firing . 308, you can get a pretty good 200 yard zero by zeroing 2 inches high at 100 yards. If you’re hunting deer, this will put you within +/- 4 inches out to 250 yards, which is both about the farthest you’ll want to take a shot at, and more than accurate enough for a deer’s 9 inch round vital zone.
Use the highest magnification on your scope.
100 yards is industry and shooters standard for sighting center-fire rifles, both iron sights and scopes.
So what you have to do is sight in rifle at that range. Then set scope at lowest magnification and practice shooting at closer and farther ranges to learn what is called “hold under and hold over” for aiming and shooting at ranges other than 100 yards.
When hunting, always leave scope on lowest setting. If you have to raise your rifle at something close in, you stand a better chance at finding and seeing it with scope set at minimum setting. Honest. Been there. Done that. And almost had the “crap” scared out of me!
And if you find something interesting to shoot at extended ranges, far away, you always have time to set power ring to higher magnification.
As for sighting in scope and rifle. Do this.
With a paper target at 25 paces/yards.
First find out if scope and rifle are pointed in the same general direction. And find out by how far the reticule and barrel are offset by seeing where you aim and where the bullet hits paper.
If you have to. . . turn the wind age adjustment a whole lot! Half a turn diameter of circle or more of the adjustment wheel/thingy.
Honest. You have too, to make bullet impact move at close range.
Why? Answer is. . . scope turrets are set at an industry standard of 100 yards or 100 meters. And may be set for like 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1 inch of movement at 100 yards.
Or you can do the math. . . inches bullet impact from point of aim times 4 (for shooting at 25 yards) times bullet movement standard set on scope. And do the number of clicks to bring bullet impact to point of aim.
. . . And. . . If the bullet lands opposite where you thought it would move. . . move number clicks to original position and then move same number of clicks in opposite direction.
Honest. Been there. Done that. The mistake and confusion, that is.
Alrighty then. With bullet hitting exactly or pretty darned close, move paper target out to 50 yards. And do shooting drill again. Move the scope adjustment thingy-dial half less than at 25 yards or do the math. Difference in inches of aim point to bullet impact times 2 times the number of clicks per inch on scope.
And alrighty then! Again. When placing bullets exactly or pretty darned close, move paper target out to 100 yards to do final sight in. If you are doing the move the clicks thing, move them half as much as when you did at 50 yards.
And/or doing the math, this time take the distance offset point of aim to where bullet lands times whatever is marked on scope to find out how many clicks to move scope.
Bullet should hit the little “X” or “+” in the middle of the paper target. Or the bullets should group around it.