I’ve kept mу .22 rimfire semi auto zeroed аt 50 yards ѕіnсе I’ve hаd thе thing. It shoots pretty small groups аt 50 yards аnd I’ve јυѕt aimed аbουt 5.5 inches high whеn shooting аt thе 100 yard targets аt thе range.
Now keep іn mind, thеrе іѕ nο real practical υѕе tο zero thе scope fοr 100 οn thіѕ rifle ѕіnсе іt іѕ јυѕt a plinker, bυt i tried doing јυѕt thаt аt thе range аnd thе height adjustments ran out wіth thе bullet still impacting аbουt 1 inch low аt 100. It іѕ a Simmons 22Mag scope іf іt matters.
Thе qυеѕtіοn іѕ, іѕ thеrе a way tο zero іt fοr 100 yards іf thе height adjustment knob maxes out before thе desired elevation іѕ achieved?
Thanks, guys.
If you maxed out the adjustment, you can either shim the front of the scope, or you can get taller rings.
I’ve used soda can metal for shim material. Got a pair of scissors in your toolbox? They cut a soda can easy as pie. Start with one shim, if you need it taller, cut one long shim and fold it in half, it keeps it from moving.
sand bags the rifle then use a laser1 that use to set pipe runs
then shime you should beable to group a dime
good luck happy shooting
i think you’re on the right track with no practical use. . . . at 100 yards and the weight of a . 22lr just about anything including the time of day will affect your trajectory. but this being said the other guy is right about shimming. a cheap shim is a piece of aluminum foil, keep adding till you get the desired effect. i would give him a thumbs up but im not level two yet, waaaah
I will echo the basic sentiments of
-why? 100 yards is really pushing the 22LR
-if you insist, shim.
One inch low is no big deal, I would not be concerned at all about it. * Why bother shimming it for 1″?* One inch low at 100yards is all you need to remember, and whatever your shooting at will still be hit, whether its a inanimate object or animal. * It will still be a lethal hit regardless on an animal. *
You could always try a higher velocity round. It might not drop quite as far at 100 yards. Try something like the Remington Viper. It has a 36 grain bullet and muzzle velocity of 1410 fps. With the lighter bullet and higher velocity it shouldn’t drop quite as much. The shim under the front scope mount is another option.
I would never shim a scope and I would never try to dial a . 22 in at 100 yards. It just doesnt make any sense. The crosswinds would have to be almost non existant to dial it in. Who’s to say the wind conditions will be the same when your plinkink or hunting? A . 22 is like what 18 grains? With a bullet that light even the slightest breeze can really blow it off course not to mention a bullet that light doesnt have much velocity. The trajectory really drops off out past 50 yards.
If you insist on doing it anyways you probably should shoot a better . 22 cartridge such as the CCI Stingers. They are way more expensive than cheapie Remington or Winchester shells but they do shoot better. I know this for a fact because I have my . 22 dialed in as a “tackdriver” at 40 yards with cheapie Remington shells. I switched over to CCI stingers one time to use them up and I was shooting about an inch high. Hope the info helps you.
Shimming under the scope at the front ring would probably get you a few more clicks. . . We used to shoot in rimfire “silhouette match’s” years ago, and they were shot at 25-50-75-100 yards. . . . The “ram” at 100 yards was 4 inches tall, and 5 inches long, and was a pill to hit, because you had to shoot all stations off hand. . . It was amazing how many “hog killers” would score right up there with the Walther Running Boars, and BSA Martini’s. . . . With a good squeeze, posture, and breathing, a . 22 can be quite accurate at 100 yards. . . .
Try using some hyper-velocity ammunition. The flatter trajectory might give you enough elevation without resorting to shims.
Doc
RAISE THE REAR SCOPE BASE TO RAISE THE POINT OF IMPACT (LOWERS AIMING POINT)
“Shim stock . 010″ thick, placed under the rear of the mount base will raise the point of impact about 7″. To lower the point of impact, place the shim stock under the front end of the base. ”
http://www. abousainc. com/SightIn. htm
“raise the back to raise the point of impact, lower it to lower POI. ”
http://elmtreeforge. blogspot. com/2006/02/range-report. html
“Move the rear of the scope up to raise the strike of the bullet downrange”
http://www. pyramydair. com/blog/archive/2005_03_01_pyramydair_archive. html
“Shim the rear to lower the point of aim and shim the front to raise the point of aim” NOT point of impact
http://www. twincityrodandgun. com/PDF%20files/GuidetoBoresighting. pdf
Shimming will work-use drink can aluminum or 35mm film negative strips. To raise the point of impact, you will need to shim under the REAR scope mount. Think about it-if the rear of the scope is now higher than the front, then your sight picture will be lower in relation to the bore. The bore will be higher in relation to the sight picture in the scope, thus it will shoot higher.
Shimming is the best way to go. You shim under the front ring, not the rear like john said. Use tin cans, matchbook cover will work in a pinch but only temporary. tin foil works too if you need thin shim. you can also buy scope shims at cabellas.
You are asking a . 22 to do something it was never intended to do. Kinda like trying to teach a fish to ride a bicycle. A . 22 is at its best at ranges under 50 yards. That’s why you have maxed out the scope adjustments, it was never intended to adjust for the trajectory of a . 22 at 100 yards. If you just want to play around with it for the heck of seeing what you can do, I’d look for a . 22 cartridge with a lighter bullet and a little more velocity. Buy, hey, an inch low at 100 yards, heck, I’d just add a touch of Kentucky windage (elevation) and not do anything else.
Depending on the twist rate of your barrel and the ammo that you are using, your ammo may become unstable prior to 100 yards.